Newfoundland: St John's and the Avalon Peninsula

 

A sheltered harbor surrounded by towering cliffs,

colorful Jellybean Row houses,

and an initiation ceremony that involves kissing a frozen cod.

(no real photo here 'cause we haven't been persuaded to do it ... yet!)

We had entered a new part of the island for us ... the colorful town of St John's on the Avalon Peninsula. Located on the eastern edge of Newfoundland, it is the most populated city of Newfoundland and Labrador.  During our visit to this island two years ago, we didn't have enough time to explore this lively area. With a few more weeks planned on the island with this visit, we had plenty of time to see what makes St John's and the Avalon Peninsula one of the most popular tourist destinations on the ''Rock''.

Our route around the Avalon Peninsula

History on Signal Hill in St John's

St John's, the provincial capital of Newfoundland and Labrador and its largest city, has a history as colorful as the homes that line its waterfront.

Blessed with a well-protected natural harbor, St  John's has played an important role in the maritime, military, and communication history of the province.

It was high on Signal Hill in the 18th century that many battles were fought between the French and the English in the attempt to gain control of the rich fishing waters just off the coast. Soaring above the city, the Cabot Tower was the location where Guglielmo Marconi received the first transatlantic wireless communication in 1901. During WWII, Signal Hill became an important strategic location for the protection of North America against the Axis powers. 

Stunning sea views from the top of the rocky cliffs that surround the city make this a hiker's paradise also. It was from these high cliffs that we were able to see our first whales on the island! While it's almost impossible to capture in photos, it's pretty amazing to watch their water spouts and tail dives through our binoculars.

Happy Canada Day!

Like Independence Day in the US, Canada Day (July 1) gives everyone a reason to don their red and white maple leaves and gather outdoors to (finally) celebrate the arrival of summer. Picnics, music, and fireworks filled the day. 

We got in on the birthday celebration with free cupcakes and a Newfoundland language lesson at the Signal Hill Visitor Center coffee shop. Yes, we're ''havin' a time''! 

From our boondocking spot near Signal Hill, we ended our day with ''some shockin' good'' views of the fireworks that evening.

Some other highlights during our stay in St John's included:

... learning about rocks while on the ''Rock'' when we visited the Johnson Geo Center,

... adding another ''Capital'' to my list when we stopped by the Provincial Building of Newfoundland and Labrador.

... and searching for the best fish & chips. Ches's Famous Fish & Chips may be St John's oldest deep-fried seafood hangout, but it didn't end up high on our list. Our quest continues.

And while an evening out included a trip to the popular Quidi Vidi Brewery, we were't quite convinced that we wanted to be fully ''screeched in'' as a ''Newfie'' if it involved a shot of rum and kissing a frozen cod. We'll stick to the beer that may or may not have recently been a part of a melting iceberg. 

After a few days in this colorful city,

... we were ready to enjoy the tranquility of the lesser populated parts of the Avalon Peninsula.

The road around the southern portion of the peninsula is named the ''Irish Loop'' because of historical ties that this area has with Ireland. Here we would find beautiful lighthouses, scenic coastal hikes, and frolicking whales enjoying a capelin feast.

Cape Spear Lighthouse National Historical Site

The Cape Spear Lighthouse is probably one of the most famous lighthouses in Newfoundland, possibly because it is the first location in North America to see the sunrise.

Because they allow boondocking in the Visitor Center parking area, there could have been a slight chance that I would be one of the first to see the sunrise at 5 am ... but it didn't happen.

The surrounding trails provided amazing lighthouse scenes as well as spectacular ocean views.

Pick a Section ... Any Section of the East Coast Trail!

Newfoundland's hiking trails are amazing, and it has become our goal to enjoy at least one or two of these trails each day. We used Google Maps and All Trails to find a few of the spectacular hiking trails that hug the coast of the Avalon Peninsula as a part of the 336 kilometer (210 mile) East Coast Trail system.

The trailheads are usually easy to get to and have abundant parking. The trails are of moderate difficulty requiring a bit of climbing and occasional scrambling over rocks and tree roots, but for the most part, we have found them to be well marked and well maintained. It always amazes us to think about the effort that goes into building and maintaining the stairs and platforms that safely get you to your next fantastic vista. And while fog sometimes obstructed our views, we still believe that it only adds to the beauty.

Whale Watching at St Vincent Beach

On the southern tip of the Avalon Peninsula near the town of St Vincent lies a beach area that is close to some favorite feeding grounds for hundreds of whales. While we had to endure a few rough roads, some stiff ocean breezes, and a bit of fog,

... it was worth it to hear, ''ther' she blows''!

Frolicking humpback whales were more than happy to allow us to watch their acrobatics as they filled their bellies with the 3000 pounds or more of fish that they eat each day!

By now we hope that we have convinced you ... whether hanging out in St John's, driving along the Irish Loop, or conquering another section of the East Coast Trail system, Newfoundland's Avalon Peninsula turns the rugged drama of its rocky coast into regal beauty with each new vista!

It's a joy to ''take a spell'' and enjoy the view!