The Columbia River Gorge Road Trip: Where the Views Dazzle and the Friends Delight

While Baby Beest seemed to have passed the "Mount St Helens" test, we still needed a little more travel time before declaring full victory. Luckily, just across the mighty Columbia River in northern Oregon lies the start of one of America's most iconic road trips ... a road trip that would continue to rebuild our confidence and revive our spirit.

Waterfalls,

mountain views,

bike rides,

a cozy forest cabin,

a welcoming urban oasis,

and time with friends

... turned this Columbia River Gorge adventure into a joyful reminder of how beautiful life on the road can be.

Portland, Oregon

Our first stop was Portland, Oregon where fellow Hymer owners, Tracey and Michael, invited us to hang out for the weekend. They spoiled us with a quiet parking spot, some delicious meals, and a personalized e-bike tour along Portland's scenic bike trails.

While Portland has been portrayed in the news recently as a city devastated by crime and violent protests, we found a beautiful and safe community with numerous outdoor recreational opportunities and a community embracing the chance to be outdoors.

We loaded our folding bikes on the city bus that took us to a very scenic trail alongside the Willamette River.

From there we biked into downtown along the many bike-friendly streets past Victorian mansions and modern condominiums

... to find lunch in a cute little diner that hadn't changed their decor since they opened in 1947 ... although the original 10 cent milk shake now costs a tad bit more.

We biked past the ICE headquarters where a small group of peaceful protesters were gathered, but for the most part, Portland struck us as a peaceful city with both historic and modern neighborhoods and plenty of bike-friendly roads that made it easy to get out and enjoy this sunny day ... which can be a rarity in the Pacific Northwest.

Columbia Gorge Scenic Highway

From Portland we headed west along a historic section of highway that hugs the Columbia River and is known for its scenic gorges,

numerous waterfalls,

recreational opportunities,

and breathtaking natural beauty.

The 80 mile long Columbia River Gorge, a National Scenic Area, was formed as the Columbia River carved a dramatic canyon through the Cascade Mountains. The Historic Columbia River highway, completed in 1922, ran above the gorge and is considered to be the first scenic highway built in the United States. It may also be where the concept of a leisurely "Sunday drive" was born as the highway led early 20th century motorists to numerous waterfalls and hiking trails.

The original highway has since been replaced with a multi-lane expressway closer to the river, but it is still possible to bike and drive on certain sections of this picturesque road.

Waterfalls galore adorn the slopes of the Columbia River Gorge with Multnomah Falls being the most popular one to visit and photograph.

But the "off the beaten path" ones were our favorites to visit.

We stopped in the town of Cascade Locks to check out the Bridge of the Gods, along with a few craft breweries.

This bridge is no doubt a welcome site for many hikers as it is where the Pacific Crest Trail crosses from Oregon into Washington. We walked across it to take in the sweeping views of the gorge

... and to be able to claim that we have hiked one mile of the PCT!

As you can see by my slightly disheveled hat, the winds blow mighty strong up and down the gorge making this area a windsurfers' paradise also.

Mount Hood

The mountain streams flowing from Mount Hood into the Columbia River must provide an ample and flavorful supply of water, as we found numerous craft breweries in the towns along the Columbia River Gorge Highway. After stopping in Hood River to add another one or two to Doug's ever-growing list, we turned south and were greeted by majestic views of Mount Hood, the tallest peak in Oregon.

This stretch of highway proved to be a good test of Baby Beest's climbing skills as we made our way past some of the popular ski and recreational areas that surround the mountain. The mountain's grandeur continued to shine as we took a two mile hike around Trillium Lake.

A Cabin Oasis

Our next destination was a cozy cabin retreat tucked in the national forest, where fellow Hymer friends Tessy and Bill welcomed us with open arms.

A few days of true R&R followed that included creekside hikes, great food, and long chats that filled both our bellies and our hearts.

After a few hectic weeks, we’re feeling incredibly grateful to be surrounded by nature’s beauty and the warmth of friendship once again.

For the true joy of full-time travel lies not only in the dazzling views along the way, but also in the delightful friendships that are formed along the journey. These friends have a special way of making us feel right at home, no matter where we are.

Satisfied that Baby Beest's "fix" is going to hold, we looped back around Mount Hood and the Columbia River Gorge 

... to the place where the Columbia River ends its long journey as it flows into the Pacific Ocean near the town of Astoria, Oregon.

From there ... we'll continue heading south as we repeat our all-time favorite US road trip along the breathtaking Oregon coast.

Mount St Helens: Putting Baby Beest's New Superpowers to the Test

Baby Beest was definitely limping along as we made our way from Port Townsend to Vancouver, Washington. The evening before we were to bring her into the RAM repair shop, we braced ourselves to be "homeless" for anywhere from a few days to a few weeks to a few months. We checked into a nearby hotel and prepared to make the best of our situation while the mechanics ran their diagnostics. All we could do was wait and hope the repair estimate, however long or costly it turned out to be, would help us decide where RVentures would lead us next.

We figured that we would have at least a week to explore the city. And much to our delight, Vancouver proved to be another very easy and fun city to explore.

Our hotel was near the city's largest mall, so we had a number of coffee shops, bakeries, breweries, and restaurants to choose from. Of course, we had to check out the local donut legend, VooDoo Donuts, at least once.

The city's bus transit center was located there, and we quickly found out how easy it was to catch a ride to downtown Vancouver where ...

historical sites,

river walks,

and of course, more restaurants and breweries awaited to be discovered.

Crispy cheesy shrimp tacos ... Doug's new obsession!

We visited Fort Vancouver National Historic Site, perched on the north bank of the Columbia River. In the early 1800s, it was the site of Hudson Bay Company’s main supply depot and a hub for the fur trade industry. As we wandered through the restored buildings, volunteers brought the era to life, helping us imagine the daily routines of this once-vibrant economic, political, and cultural center. After the Oregon Treaty of 1846 placed the land under U.S. jurisdiction, the site shifted from a bustling trading post to an important military base. 

 Doug sat on the porch of Fort Vancouver's commander's house while I visited the many restored buildings, and watched the skills and heard the stories from the park's knowledgeable volunteers.

It was fun exploring the city for a few days, but thankfully, it was short-lived. By the end of the first day, we had the mechanic's diagnosis. The bad news? Yes, we needed a new engine .... ouch! The good news? They actually had one in stock, which meant the repair could be done quickly.

Three days later,

... Doug was checking out Baby Beest’s new under-the-hood

Superpowers!

After maxing out our credit cards, it was time to test out Baby Beest's new engine. Understandably, we were a little hesitant about venturing too far from Vancouver. We had always been interested in visiting Mount St Helens National Volcanic Monument, and after checking out the route on Google Maps, it seemed like a perfect "test-drive" destination.

We both remember hearing about the devastation when Mount St Helens erupted on May 18, 1980, but we never imagined the incredible beauty we would witness when, once again, Mother Nature has emerged victorious over a natural disaster.

The massive eruption triggered the largest debris avalanche ever recorded, wiping out vast stretches of forest and claiming 57 lives. Though it forever altered the landscape, it also turned the area into a living laboratory, where scientists continue to study how the earth heals and ecosystems rebound after such devastation.

We tested Baby Beest's mountain climbing skills as we drove up the highway into the park. Starting at sea level, we saw the face of the volcano after we ascended to an elevation of about 4000 feet.

A stop at the Mount St Helens Visitor Center told us the story of the history surrounding the park and the effect of the eruption on the people, landscape, and wildlife.

A little further up the road, the Forest Learning Center showed us how the surrounding forest area is home to millions of acres of new-growth timber thanks to the joint efforts of the national government and private businesses. Weyerhaeuser, a major forest products company, worked quickly after the eruption to gather the millions of fallen trees and replant the barren hillsides. This cooperation between the government and private business is evident today as we looked out at the surrounding hills. Forty-five years ago these hills were stripped bare, but today they glimmer with the brilliant green of healthy pines.

As a result of the eruption's massive landslides, area lakes were buried, and the courses of local rivers were dramatically changed. But, a positive benefit was the creation of new area lakes like this beautiful gem ... Coldwater Lake.

Located at the farthest point that one can drive to in the park, Coldwater Lake boasts of being one of the United States "newest" lakes. Just a year after the eruption, the abundant snow melt and rainfall filled in this beautiful new recreational area.

During our two mile hike along the lake's shoreline, we were greeted by delicate wildflowers, colorful autumn leaves, and magnificent views of the surrounding peaks.

Because Coldwater Lake is located in the middle of national monument land, the surrounding forests are found in a more "natural" state. During our hike, we passed stumps of trees that were snapped in half by the violent eruption and are supporting the new forest growth that sprouts from them.

In the lake, massive tree stumps stand as silent reminders that nature is always in a state of change.

That night we were able to boondock next to the Forest Learning Center and enjoy views of the river valley and the colorful hues of the setting sun as it illuminated the currently quiet, but still very much active Mount St Helens.

Our first outing went well, and we are grateful that Baby Beest's new superpowers allow us to continue to travel, discover, and enjoy the beauty that the earth's volcanic "superpowers" continue to create.