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Monday, March 29, 2021

Hanging Out with the Gators at Okefenokee National Wildlife Refuge


Days are getting longer. The temps are heating up. The wildflowers are popping up. Weather-weary and pandemic-weary spring breakers are flocking to the beaches of Florida. The time is coming for us to think about heading north.


But not so fast! We still need to stay close to our home base ... ready at the drop of the hat to roll up our sleeves when our turn comes for the vaccine. Fortunately, there are still many amazing places waiting to be explored in this area. And one with a funny name ... Okefenokee struck our interest. Something that fun to pronounce has to be even more fun to visit!


Friends had talked highly about Stephen C Foster State Park in southern Georgia which is located in the middle of the Okefenokee National Wildlife Refuge. They raved about the secluded area that was full of natural treasures. So we decided to head a little ways north to check out the Okefenokee swamp and hang out with the gators!
 


Does the name Stephen C Foster bring a catchy tune to mind???

🎶 Way down upon the Suwannee River ðŸŽ¶


Stephan Foster's famous song ''Old Folks at Home'' contained that catchy line. And since the headwaters of the Suwannee River are located near the entrance of this park, it seemed appropriate that this Georgia state park is named after him.



The Okefenokee National Wildlife Refuge is a 438,000 acre shallow wetland that straddles the Florida/Georgia border and is the largest blackwater swamp in North America. The dark tea-color of the swamp is the result of large deposits of tannins in the water as it flows through peaty soil and decaying vegetation. This peat-filled wetland is home to many carnivorous plants, wading birds, and of course, the king of swamp-loving reptiles, the American alligator.

By the early 20th century, the Okefenokee area was almost completely destroyed by humans. The swamp was drained for farmland, and the ancient cypress forests were leveled by lumbering companies. Conservation efforts began in 1937 when the area became a National Wildlife refuge.


The area gained fame in the 1950s when the Okefenokee swamp became the setting of a popular syndicated cartoon strip, Pogo. Cartoonist Walt Kelly used humor and satire to address political as well as environmental issues. As proponents for protecting our environment, Pogo and his swamp friends sadly lamented that ... the Okefenokee swamp ''had met the enemy and he is us''.

 

We were happy to see that slowly, the area is starting to recover. During our three days in the park, we were able to hike through the long leaf pine forests,


... follow the boardwalk through the wetland swamp,


and canoe past the Spanish moss-laden cypress trees whose beauty is reflected back in the black water.


We were also able to admire the ''star'' of this park ... the American Alligator. Twelve thousand gators of various sizes call this refuge ''home''. 

From the babies, with their black and brown stripes, who were just learning to swim and hunt,

... to the grand-daddies happily digesting their recent meal on a sunny log,


 
... there were many opportunities to capture the fearsome beauty of these swamp creatures. My new camera helped me zoom in on the gators as they waded through the murky waters or just basked in the sun.


Since most of the area is covered with water or mud, the best way to see the refuge is, of course, by boat. We rented a canoe our first day, but soon realized that if we wanted to get into the ''heart'' of the refuge, we would need something with more power than the paddler that Doug was stuck with! 


The following afternoon we rented a jon boat and were able navigate deeper into the refuge where the waterways narrowed and the gator sightings increased. Doug expertly maneuvered around cypress trees and floating gator obstacles.  



For those more adventurous then us, it is possible to plan a multiple-day canoe trip deep into the refuge and camp overnight on one of several wooden camping platforms. Hanging out with gators and swarms of mosquitoes at night?? We will leave that adventure for someone braver (or crazier) than us.


We are content to soak up the silence of the Okefenokee swamp as we float back to our campsite ... grateful that in this place people are working to meet and beat the enemy in order to preserve the natural beauty of the Okefenokee swamp for future generations..

Thursday, March 18, 2021

Campgrounds Full? Boondockers Welcome and Harvest Hosts to the Rescue!

 

One huge blessing that has come out of the chaotic past year has been the chance for American families to spend time together as they re-discover the great outdoors and the joy of camping.
Mountains, Beaches, Forests,
and all the surrounding
National, State and Local Parks.
With other forms of vacation travel limited, many people are turning to camping. As RV sales continue to rise, campgrounds are bustling. It is great to see families gathered around campfires enjoying gooey smores and the great outdoors.


With the increased demand, many public campgrounds have gone to a reservation-only system which means that parks fill up way in advance ... especially on the weekends. Not ideal for spur-of-the-moment planners like us. With our van, we are small enough and nimble enough to find some nice sites during the week, but securing a spot on the weekend can be a bit of a challenge. During our recent stay at Fort Desoto County Park, we needed to figure out where to stay on the Friday and Saturday nights in between our two weeks at the park. We wanted to hang out in the Tampa/Clearwater area so ...

Boondockers Welcome and Harvest Hosts to the rescue!


Memberships in these two programs have allowed us to explore new cities while still enjoying a safe, quiet parking spot at night. On the weekend between our stretch of days at Fort Desoto, we found a Boondockers Welcome host 15 miles away who allowed us to park in his driveway for the Friday and Saturday night. 

From there we were able to walk around his cute St Petersburg suburb of Gulfport and add another craft brewery coaster to Doug's collection.




On Saturday we took a short seven mile drive to enjoy a day at the beach. Besides great beach walking, Madeira Beach also happens to be the location of our all-time favorite brewery/restaurant ... Mad Beach Brewing. We're so glad that we saved room for dessert, as they served up a delicious creme brulee cheesecake that paired perfectly with their Imperial marshmallow porter.




On Sunday morning we said good-bye to our host, drove to a local park, got out our bikes, and hopped on the nearby Pinellas Bike Trail. The trail led us to downtown St Petersburg, through a beautiful bayside park, and to another outdoor restaurant. We shared the local fish and chips basket so that we would have room for one more scrumptious dessert.



This flexibility and ability to explore new destinations is possible with our Harvest Hosts and Boondockers Welcome memberships. Here is more information for those of you who may be interested in finding unique camping experiences as well as safe, inexpensive boondocking locations.


Harvest Hosts

Harvest Hosts connects RVers with businesses that have space for them to park overnight. These businesses range from farms to wineries to breweries to museums to golf courses. A membership costs us $79 per year and allows us access to most of the Harvest Host locations. If we wanted to include the golf courses, there would be an additional fee. We contact the business ahead of time to reserve our spot and need to arrive during their business hours. Instead of a camping fee, we are encouraged to make a purchase at the business.

Not a problem when we stopped at a Harvest Host brewery in Montana's oldest community.

I was equally content with a Harvest Host winery stopover in the middle of Florida's Muscadine grape region ... a sweet wine lover's paradise!


Some of our favorite Harvest Host locations in the past year have been ...

A ''you-pick-em'' blueberry farm in northern Idaho ... yes, it is possible to eat six pounds of blueberries!

An Oregon coast farm that made its own cheese, wine, and ice cream ... how does one choose??? 

And an eastern Washington farm with very attentive donkeys ... as long as you had carrots!

Harvest Host Positives:
  • Fresh local produce
  • Large parking areas
  • Often the breweries and wineries have food also, so it gets me out of cooking for the evening which is always a good deal!

Harvest Host Negatives:
  • Most locations allow just a one night stay.
  • Locations of farms and wineries are sometimes in out-of-the-way, rural locations.
  • Camping isn't entirely ''free'' as guests are expected to make a purchase.
  • There are no electric hook-ups, so you have to be set up for boondocking. If there are other RVs parked nearby, generator noise can sometimes be an issue.
  • Mask mandates and social distancing rules vary depending on the part of the country which sometimes makes it difficult to comfortably patronize their business.
  • Popular locations such as wineries can be as busy as campgrounds on the weekends!




Boondockers Welcome

Boondockers Welcome matches private homeowners with RVers who need a place to park for anywhere from one to five nights. A yearly membership costs $50 and gives us access to over 2000 parking locations just in the US. There are also many more locations to discover in Canada when the borders open once again. The parking locations vary depending on how much land the homeowner has. Because of our small size, we can fit in a small driveway/side yard or stretch out in a large open field overlooking Mount Hood.



Our ''neighbors'' have included curious pups as well as stand-offish horses.



So you may be thinking ... Why would people want to allow strangers to stay on their property? We were wondering the same thing when we first joined ... and the answer was immediately clear. These are people who truly enjoy traveling and sharing experiences with fellow vagabonds. The website posts reviews of both the hosts and the guests, so we all usually know what to expect before we arrive. Reservations and communications are easy as they are all handled electronically via text messaging. When arriving at our host's home, we have found it easy to share many enjoyable conversations while maintaining social distancing. We appreciate the chance to form new friendships with people who make us feel right at home!


Boondockers Welcome Positives
  • There are twice as many Boondockers Welcome locations as Harvest Hosts locations
  • Locations include both rural and urban homes
  • Yearly membership fee is less than Harvest Hosts
  • Communication is all handled electronically and by text messages
  • You can stay from one to five days depending on the host
  • Quite a few hosts provide water fills and electric hook ups and usually just ask for a small donation ($5 to $10 if you use the hook-ups)
  • No need to ''purchase'' anything
  • Every host that we have stayed with has been so nice! They provide a wealth of information about local parks, attractions, events, hiking, and biking.

Boondockers Welcome Negatives
Gosh, it's hard to think of anything negative ...
  • No loud noise, parties or campfires allowed
  • There most likely are not hook-ups, so you have to be set up to boondock
  • Some hosts have restrictions on dogs, children, generators, etc, but the rules are clearly stated when requesting a stay
 

As you can probably tell (if you made it this far), we are huge fans of Boondockers Welcome and Harvest Hosts. A quiet resting spot near to new places to explore and hosts (and their pups) who become good friends ... What is not to like??


Check it out for yourselves. Let Boondockers Welcome and Harvest Hosts come to your rescue and enjoy your small piece of paradise!


PS ... if you do end up joining either program, feel free to put our name down as referring you, and we all will get an additional month of membership ... win-win!

Sunday, March 7, 2021

A Local Gem: Fort Desoto County Park


Shhhhh ... I'm going to let you in on a little secret. Almost everyone knows about the fabulous beachside locations of many of Florida's most popular state park campgrounds. You are pretty much out of luck if you want to snag a spot for even a night at Bahia Honda State Park in the Florida Keys, Anastasia State Park on the Atlantic coast, or any other state park campground that has easy access to Florida's pristine coastline beaches.


But the locals know about the ''hidden gems'' of Florida campgrounds. So when we strike up a conversation with a camper from the area, one of our first questions is usually, ''What is your favorite Florida campground?'' And more often than not, Fort Desoto County Park is the answer.


We briefly visited Fort Desoto last year when we were exploring the St Petersburg area, and we were impressed with the serene setting of this county park. That visit, however, was too short to really explore this barrier island, so we decided to go back to discover why the locals rave about Fort Desoto. Surprisingly, reserving a site at this county park was more successful than trying to get into Florida's popular state park campgrounds. Doug was able to reserve a spot in one of Fort Desoto's smaller tent/van sites for five nights (Sunday through Thursday) during the week. Weekends, as we expected, were completely booked. He booked two five day stretches leaving the weekend in between open, so I started researching our boondocking options in the Tampa Bay area. I was quite successful, but will leave those details for my next blog entry. For now, come enjoy the vegetation, wildlife, beaches, and sunsets that make Fort Desoto County Park a local gem ... and one of our new favorite Florida ''homes''.


First off ... The campsites are AMAZING! Even in the section deemed too ''tight'' for anything bigger than our Class B van, we enjoyed a spacious and private site. Every site has water and electric hook-ups. A number of the sites had bay views, but I was very content with my tree-filled yard that came complete with live lawn ornaments!


Secondly ... This park is HUGE! With over 1100 acres, there is plenty of space to camp, bike, walk, bird-watch, and just enjoy being a beach bum. Many days we would just move our ''home'' three miles down the road from our campsite to one of the numerous day-use parking areas and enjoy the beach for the day.


From there we walked the relatively flat sandy beach in search of a fortune in the form of $and dollar$ and other sea treasures. I found more than I will ever need (or can store in our van), so it was even more fun to give my treasures away to the little kids searching for shells on the beach. One sweet little girl looked at me like I had just handed her a million dollars when I offered her an unbroken sand dollar.


Because this park is so big, it was very easy to walk the miles of beaches and feel like we had the whole island to ourselves. It is a popular local destination, so the park fills up on the weekends, but during the week we enjoyed leaving the only footprints in the sandy beach.


  
Thirdly ... Nature ABOUNDS in the form of interesting wildlife and colorful flowers! Everywhere we looked, there were blue herons, ospreys, and egrets patiently waiting to snag their next fish dinner.




The blooming flowers that decorated our path reflected a hope that spring will soon be making its way north,


... although I am not sure that the cardinals are convinced that it is safe to head north just yet.


And we can all learn about healthy eating habits from one of our local favorites, the gopher tortoise. It is always fun to watch this ''living lawnmower'' enjoy his nutritious lunch of green grass and weeds.



Fourthly ... You can take a three hour tour to a DESERTED island! Across the water from Fort Desoto lies another small island with some big history. Egmont Key State Park is a National Wildlife Refuge and contains the ruins of a fort, the cobblestone roads of an abandoned town, and a still operational lighthouse. We took the 30 minute ferry ride out to the island one afternoon and fell in love with a place where history and nature compliments each other.

We started out at the lighthouse square,

... and followed the cobblestone path

... to the crumbling foundations of a once vibrant town.

Later we marveled at how the ospreys have taken over abandoned chimney stacks for nesting,

... and were happy to realize that the gopher tortoise is king in this deserted island paradise!


And finally ... The sunsets are SPECTACULAR! Our days at Fort Desoto County Park would not be complete without a three mile bike ride out to the beach to catch an ever-changing and always spectacular sunset over the Gulf of Mexico.


Whether illuminating kayakers,

... or highlighting the ripples of the ocean,

... or filling the palm of Doug's hand,

... Sunsets, like life, are best when shared at a favorite local gem like Fort Desoto.


But, shhhhh ... don't let anyone else know ;-)