The Heather - Maple Pass Loop Hike: The Beauty of the North Cascades Surrounds Us

 

Hiking is a bit like life:

the journey only requires you to put one foot

in front of the other ... again and again and again.

If you allow yourself opportunity to be present

throughout the entirety of the trek, you will witness

beauty every step of the way, not just at the summit.

Unknown

North Cascades National Park is a somewhat difficult national park to actually ''see'' up close. There is one road, the North Cascade Highway, that runs through it, but it only allows access to a small portion of the natural area that encompasses the national park. Because the park's lakes, forests, and mountains are almost entirely protected as ''wilderness'' area with very few back-country roads, the only way to see the majestic views up-close is to hike in. And that is just what we did! 

We had read and heard from fellow travelers that the best hiking is located on the eastern border of the national park itself which was the direction that we were traveling from. After exploring the Lake Chelan area, we continued on the North Cascades Highway (Highway 20) through the cute town of Pateros (one of my favorite ''street'' campsites ever ... thanks to the river park on one side and bakery/pizzeria on the other) and headed towards the snow-capped mountains that make up North Cascades National Park.

We camped at KlipChuck, a national forest campground just outside of the park. During our sunset hike around the campground that evening, we saw our first hint of the rugged beauty of the Cascade Mountain wilderness that we were about to visit.

A few days earlier, I had read an article about the ''most scenic hike ever'' in the North Cascades written by a fellow traveler. The hike was actually not in the national park itself, but stated in the National Forest. With a little effort, it rewarded hikers with amazing close-up views of the mountains that make up North Cascades National Park. The Heather - Maple Pass Loop is a 7.2 mile moderate intensity hike with a 2000 foot elevation gain that starts and ends at Rainy Pass Trailhead. It promised amazing views with every step. Doug researched the hike and even with limited internet service, was able to find out information the old fashioned way ... by maps posted at the trailhead.

No complicated map needed,
just follow that red circle around Lake Ann.

Just in case this hike took longer than expected,
this map points out where we could and couldn't camp out
for the night ... not that we were bringing any camping gear!

I was a little nervous starting out, having memories of the ''tougher than expected'' hike up to the top of Steamboat Rock fresh in my mind. But the trail was wide and seemed reasonably ''easy''. A few people that we talked to suggested doing the loop counter-clockwise, because the uphill climb at the beginning is a little more gentle with a steeper decent at the end. The author of the article also thought that the scenery was more spectacular going the counter-clockwise route. And with our first view of Lake Ann and the surrounding mountains, we had to agree!

Every step of the way, we witnessed more beauty ... it was one continuous WOW after another!

After 3.5 miles of climbing, we reached the halfway point. The ''summit'' at Maple Pass brought us to the boundary of North Cascades National Park and treated us to even more spectacular views. 

As I gazed at the snow-capped mountains in the distance, I thought about one of my favorite quotes from the bible that I had shared recently with a friend who is going through some tough times:

''I lift my eyes to the mountains ... Where does my help come from? My help comes from the Lord, the maker of heaven and earth.''

Psalm 122:1-2

The ascent was difficult at times, but God rewarded us with the beauty that we witnessed with every step.

From the huge pine forests,

... to the delicate wildflowers, 

... to the breathtaking mountain views, God's beauty surrounds us!

After a peanut butter sandwich lunch (elegant views don't require elegant meals all the time) ... we started down the series of switch-backs that would lead us back to the trailhead.

On the way down, Doug would have to frequently wait for me to catch up to him. I'm sure that he was thinking, ''How slow can she go?? And how many pictures of wildflowers can she take???''

But he took quite a few of his own and had the added challenge of deciding which of the 100 or so photos we should keep ... it is hard to take a ''bad'' picture when surrounded by such beauty.

The afternoon sun was heating up and our legs were starting to feel the miles that they had moved. We were relieved at that point to look down at Rainy Lake on one side and Lake Ann on the other, because we knew that the Baby Beest couldn't be far away. As the trail brought us down into the pine forest where we had begun our hike four and a half hours earlier, I though about the life journey that we all are on.

While there are times when it seems hard ... especially during these difficult times of illness, separation, or pandemics ... we sometimes need to be reminded to just keep moving ... one step at a time...  

... in order to see the beauty of the world that surrounds us

... and the love that is right next to us!

The ''Desert'' of Eastern Washington State

Talk about the weather in the state of Washington, and rain most often comes to mind. We can probably blame that on the popularity of Washington's largest city, Seattle, which averages 156 days days of rain each year.

So we were in for quite a surprise when we entered the eastern part of the state for the first time. It was the mountains, high ridges, rolling hills, deep river gorges and lakes in a ''desert'' setting that surprised and delighted us as we explored another new-to-us state.

Spokane was our first stop. We stayed two days on the property of another gracious Boondockers Welcome host. Their home overlooked the Spokane River and was near to Riverside State Park where we were able to do some hiking. While at the park, we purchased Washington state's ''Discover Pass'' for $30. This pass gives us access any Washington state park or recreational area for the next year. We figured that we would make good use of it for the month or so that we plan to be in the state. 

''Spirit'', our Boondockers Welcome
greeter, seemed ready to move in
and hit the road with us!

A beautiful bike trail connected
the park with downtown Spokane,
so we were able to park there and
bike into the city to see its sights.

A friend, whose daughters went to
Gonzaga University, first told us about
the beauty of Spokane, and we totally agree!

We enjoyed a delicious lunch and
craft brew alongside the river
on the deck of No Li Brewhouse.

Biking back we enjoyed spectacular
views of the Spokane River that had
a hint of ''desert'' in the background.

After leaving Spokane, our drive west started to take on more of a dry dusty feel. With the parched landscape and temps approaching 100, we quickly realized that we had made it to the ''desert'' of eastern Washington. The Cascade Mountain range that runs down the middle of the state effectively blocks much of the ocean precipitation and creates this desert climate that is so different from ''rainy'' western Washington. We stopped to look at the Grand Coulee dam that spans the Columbia River. In addition to producing hydroelectric power, the dam creates an important source of water for irrigation of local farms in this otherwise dry area.

Lunch with a view of the Grand Coulee Dam

After lunch, we decided to use our Discover Pass to check out Steamboat Rock State Park, just down the road on the banks of the Columbia River.  Such an amazing formation like Steamboat Rock just begs to be hiked up, so....

How hard can that climb be?

Quite hard ... and hot ...

... and outside of my skill level
and comfort zone at times,

... but the view from the top, and the sense of achievement
made me take back every bad word that I thought
about saying aloud as Doug was encouraging me up!

Crazy 360 degree beauty!

Mountain goat, I am not,
but I am grateful for being able
to safely finish this challenging
and rewarding climb!

After our climb we were able to find the pay showers at the state park campground to wash off all the desert dust that I was beginning to accept as the ''new norm''. From there we set off for another night with no hook-ups but with a lot of peace and quiet at North Ridge Farm, our Harvest Host camping location for the night. As the name suggests, we drove out of the Columbia River valley and ended up on a high ridge covered with fertile wheat fields for as far as the eye could see.

We weren't able to visit with our hosts much
as they were in the midst of wheat harvest season,

... so we checked out the green house
and found the carrots that they
said we could feed to the animals.

And although they came across as shy at first,

... the donkeys quickly warmed up when
they realized that the new guests had
some special treats for them.

With all the farm animals content,
Baby Beest settled in for a quiet night's sleep.

When we visit a new area, we try to get local recommendations of what to see and do. A suggestion to visit the Lake Chelan area came up often, so we decided to make that our next stop. As we drove down off the high ridges that house the wheat farms of Washington, we were greeted by the sight of a huge lake surrounded by rolling hills covered with orchards and vineyards. Could a winery visit be in my future??!!

From the start, the Lake Chelan area looked like an amazing place to visit, but we failed to take into consideration that we were coming into a popular resort town on a warm summer weekend with no reservations. Not the smartest move ever. The Harvest Host wineries were already booked, but we did manage to get a site at Lake Chelan State Park. Now, while we love the great hiking and sightseeing opportunities in Washington's state parks, we quickly realized that they are not our favorite overnight camping destinations. We have found they charge a lot for a campsite, the sites are very close together, and  the campgrounds are very busy with lots of people just trying to get out and enjoy summer. 

With over 300 days a year of sunshine and
summer temps in the 90s, Lake Chelan is
the popular spot for fun in the desert sun!

We, like the many other visitors, came to Chelan to enjoy lake time also ... in the form of a day trip on The Lady of the Lake passenger ferry that would take us 50 miles up to the northern tip of Lake Chelan.  There at the end of the lake lies the small isolated village of Stehekin and a first glimpse of North Cascades National Park.

About half way up the lake the roads end,
and the beauty of the Washington wilderness begins.

In the distance, the snow peaks
of North Cascades National Park appear.

The town of Stehekin is accessible only by
taking a boat or hydroplane,
or by hiking in from the Pacific Crest Trail
and other trails in the national park. 

 

After lunch, we hiked a little ways
along the shoreline trail before heading
back to Chelan on the ferry.

The presence of huge pines and more green vegetation around the north shore of Lake Chelan gave us a clue that we were not far away from the mountains that divide this state and gives it two very different climates. The Cascade Mountain Range effectively blocks the precipitation from the eastern half of Washington state, but also gives it a ''desert'' beauty that is enjoyed by so many outdoor adventurers ... including us!

Berry Heaven in the Panhandle of Idaho

After finishing the Route of the Hiawatha bike trail, we continued west and officially entered another new-to-us state ... Idaho. When most people think of Idaho, they think of potatoes. But for us, Idaho is ''berry heaven'' since we have fond memories of feasting on fresh blueberries and raspberries while making new friends in the northern Panhandle of Idaho.

First Stop: The CCHC Ranch in Coeur d'Alene, Idaho

After biking along the northern Montana/Idaho border, we arrived for a four day stay in the cute lakeside town of Coeur d'Alene arriving at the lovely ''ranch'' of our Boondockers Welcome hosts, Collin and Holly. 

It would have provided the perfect place to rest, except that Doug got interested in Collin's latest project, the construction of a bunkhouse/storage shed. Three hours later, they had the roof sheeted. The Habitat for Humanity Care-a-Vanner program may still be shut down because of Covid, but we were happy that Doug can get his hammer gun ''fix'' while helping out some wonderful new friends!

While admiring their gardens, Holly invited us to help ourselves to the abundant herbs and berries. I was excited to be able to add fresh basil and rosemary to my pasta sauce. And the raspberries became a part of a special dessert that we shared with our new friends, when I realized that I had all the ingredients to make raspberry crepes. My small van kitchen doesn't produce homemade sweets very often, so it was a treat to be able to enjoy a ''berry'' delightful dessert with our new friends on their patio.

The next day we biked another beautiful stretch of the Trail of the Coeur 'dAlenes that started in the small town of Cataldo. As we biked along the river, we enjoyed views of mountains, moose, and a mission church. Sacred Heart Church, located in Old Mission State Park, is the oldest building in Idaho (built in 1850).

Can you see him??

Chore Day Before a Visit to Spirit Creek Farm

After four days in Coeur d'Alene, we said our goodbyes to our gracious hosts at CCHC Ranch. What a lovely stay! Not sure who is going to miss the other more ... Doug or their dogs, Rowdie and Tooie. I know I was going to miss fresh berries and herbs, but not as much as the nice conversations with our new friends.

Before leaving town, we went down to Lake Coeur d'Alene for another bike ride on the Centennial Trail. It was nice that the park was less crowded than on the weekend, as I could take time to admire the flowers and sculptures that adorn this beautiful lakeside city. 

 I love this one ... ''The Valentine''
I look forward to growing old with mine!

After doing our ''chores'' in Coeur d'Alene ... ie: dumping, filling, laundry, showers, and grocery shopping, we traveled 30 miles north into the country to another Boondockers Welcome location. The goats, llamas, horses, turkeys, ducks ... and owners of Spirit Creek Farm warmly welcomed us and gave Baby Beest a comfortable resting spot for a few nights in one of their pastures of their hobby farm.

A Day Trip and Overnight Stay at Farragut State Park in Athol, Idaho

Twenty miles to the east of Spirit Creek Farm lies Farragut State Park on the shores of Lake Pend Oreille. During WWII, this area housed the world's second largest Navel training base. This site was chosen because the deep inland lake was considered a perfect location for submarine training. Today hikers, campers, and boating enthusiasts enjoy the beauty of this large park. We did a few hikes, checked out the four different campgrounds, and found a shady parking spot near the lake to relax and have dinner ... another benefit of always having your ''house'' with you!

We returned the next day and spent a night in one of their many campsites. With miles of trails, we enjoyed various views of the tall pine forests and lake.

Up North in Sandpoint, Idaho

From there we continued north to the resort town of Sandpoint, Idaho which is located 50 miles up the road on the northern tip Lake Pend Oreille. We parked alongside the city beach and watched families enjoy some summer fun. After lunch, we got out our bikes and found yet another fabulous bike trail that took us alongside the lakeshore. That evening, through our Harvest Host membership, we were able to stay in the parking lot adjacent to Wildwood Brewing after enjoying a delicious meal and craft beer on their patio.

The next day we drove up Schweitzer Mountain to the local ski resort for another hike with amazing views. We were told by some friends that if we hiked up the mountain, we could ride the ski lift down for free, so that is what we did. After hiking two and a half miles up the mountain, we were definitely ready to enjoy the beautiful ride back down.

That evening we discovered the ultimate berry heaven as we stayed at another Harvest Host location. Riley Creek Blueberry Farm is a family run farm that allows RVers to park on their property for the night. 

What a joy to have arrived at the PEAK of their blueberry harvest! Doug and I quickly filled our red bucket without a second thought about where we were going to store (or how we were going to eat) six pounds of blueberries. Fortunately, it has not been a huge problem ... blueberry crepes, blueberry parfaits, blueberry pancakes ... 

... and blueberries all by themselves, because they are just that good!

We would love to hang around and wait for the blackberries to ripen, but we have another new-to-us state to explore ... Washington.

Idaho, we have enjoyed you ''berry'' much!