In the summer of 2022, we boarded the Alaska Marine Highway ferry in Bellingham, Washington and journeyed up the Inside Passage, stopping in Juneau, Haines, and Skagway before continuing on to the interior of Alaska.
That trip really stuck with us, and we felt lucky to have experienced such a stunning part of Alaska. So this year, we assumed brief stops in these beautiful coastal towns on our way to visit Glacier Bay National Park would be enough.
Then the coastal mountains came into view ...
As we drove south from Canada toward Skagway to catch our ferry, the distant, snow-capped peaks began to work their magic once again.
We found ourselves pulled in ... not just by the breathtaking mountain vistas, but by the relaxed, unhurried pace in these isolated, sea-bound towns. During the day, these sleepy towns turn lively, packed with cruise ship visitors strolling their sidewalks in search of the perfect Alaskan treat or souvenir.
But as evening falls, the lure of the all-you-can-eat buffets and onboard entertainment pull the tourists back to their cruise ships, and the locals are left to enjoy their “deserted” streets once again.
And as we joined the locals in savoring this evening bliss, the icy allure of the Inside Passage's distant mountains and laid-back charm of its towns had us hooked all over again.
Skagway’s historical charm makes it one of my personal favorites, and I was glad for the chance to dive even deeper into its historical past during this visit. When gold was discovered in Canada’s Yukon in 1896, this once-sleepy harbor town transformed into a bustling boomtown almost overnight. Today, Skagway proudly shares its gold rush legacy with the thousands of cruise ship visitors who arrive daily to walk its storied streets.
From its historical vibes,
The Klondike Gold Rush Historical Park has restored buildings throughout the town,
that were easily enjoyed as we took our evening walks.
... to its tempting treats,
Alaskan fry bread was my favorite,
while Alaskan king crab gets Doug's vote.
... to its surrounding natural beauty,
Who can tire of Klondike gold rush era architecture with a snow-capped mountain frame?
Skagway was certainly a fun place to hang out for a few days.
Newly discovered "allures" in Skagway this time around included ...
The ghost town of Dyea, Alaska.
Hard to imagine, but in 1897, these peaceful woods were the site of another booming gold rush town. Here stampeders from all over the world arrived to prepare for their long journey to the gold fields in interior Canada almost 500 miles away.
Each stampeder seeking fortune in the Yukon had to haul a year's worth of food and supplies as they began their journey over the grueling 33-mile Chilkoot Trail. Hotels, restaurants, saloons, hospitals, and general stores were built to serve the influx of customers. By 1898, Dyea had a population of between 5000 and 8000 people.
Dyea's prosperity, however, was short lived. A devastating avalanche on the Chilkoot Trail, the dwindling of "gold fever", and severe erosion of the land around the Dyea townsite contributed to this boomtown becoming a ghost town by 1901.
At the same time, the construction of the White Pass Railroad in Skagway secured its position as the commercial "king" of the region.
Hiking a small portion of the Chilkoot Trail
Curious to experience a small part of the legendary gold rush journey, we hiked a short stretch of the trail beginning just outside of the old Dyea townsite. Even on a gorgeous summer day and carrying only water bottles and bear spray, we were winded after the first uphill climb of about one mile. I can't imagine making that ascent while lugging 50-100 pounds of gear on our backs during the long, harsh Alaskan winter months.
Not far from the trailhead, a quiet garden now honors the memory of the 70+ prospectors who lost their lives in an avalanche on April 3, 1898 ... a solemn reminder of the steep cost many paid in their pursuit of the gold rush dream.
Enjoying quiet evening walks around town
Because we don't need electric hook-ups, we were able to park in a $10/night "primitive" site at Skagway's Garden City Campground. From there it was an easy walk into town to see the sites or enjoy a craft brew and a massive amount of food with the "2 for 1" late night specials at Skagway Brewing. The smoked salmon dip ... heavenly!
Juneau, Alaska
The capital city of Alaska is only accessible by air or sea, but due to its beautiful glacial backdrops and lively restaurant and commercial district, it is a popular stop for cruise ship passengers.
The most beloved attraction, of course, is Mendenhall Glacier which is about thirteen miles from the cruise ship terminal. Tour buses continuously stream into the visitor center parking lot during the day. Although we spent time admiring this area the last time we visited, it's always nice to return and once again, see nature's ice show up close. We also were able to camp at the nearby Mendenhall Campground, so a short walk from our site rewarded us with "dusky" views of the glacier as it didn't get too dark around here until midnight at this time of the year.
Newly discovered "allures" in Juneau this time around included ...
East Glacier Trail Hike
A magical adventure awaited us when we found the East Glacier Trail that lies just behind the Mendenhall Glacier Visitor Center and hiked into the surrounding rainforest.
Once we left the crowds behind, a peaceful stillness took over, that was only surpassed by the spellbinding hues of the moss-covered forest. Thanks to the region’s heavy year-round precipitation, this temperate rainforest took on an enchanted glow.
A few miles north of Juneau, overlooking the waters of the Inside Passage is a contemplative chapel, retreat center, and gardens dedicated to St Therese.
As we explored the grounds, we found gardens, prayer labyrinths, and rosary trails blooming with flowers that reflect the tone of the scriptural stories being told
... and invite all to reflect on God's natural beauty that surrounds us.
Haines, Alaska
By air or sea, Haines is only 45 minutes from Skagway, and although they are fairly close in distance, there are no roads to make it a quick commute between the two towns. In fact, it's a 350 mile road trip up through Canada and back down again if you want to drive between the two towns. And even though they are geographically quite close, they have very different personalities. While Skagway has more of a boisterous,"touristy" feel to it, Haines evokes a quiet, "natural" feel. Cruise ships stop here only about three days a week. Once in port, most of the tourists like to check out the "salmon vs bear action" on the nearby Chilkoot River. Unfortunately, we didn't see any of the bears this time around, so you'll just have to enjoy a picture from our 2022 visit.
Newly discovered "allures" in Haines this time around included ...
all our old favorites from our previous visit because one never tires hanging out in the splendor of nature.
Battery Point Hike
This four mile round trip hike meanders gently through a forest,
onto a rocky beach,
through a moss-covered rain forest,
and out on a rocky point with spectacular mountain views.
After convincing Doug to do this hike again the next day, he was rewarded with some picture-perfect scenery while enjoying a spruce-tip ale from Haines Brewing.
Once again, we enjoyed scenic waterfront property to call "home" during our stay.
Haines Junction, Yukon
While technically not an Inside Passage town, I have chosen to include this cute small village, located where the Haines Highway intersects with the Alaska Highway. We drove there from Haines in order to continue our journey to the interior of Alaska. The "alluring" reason for us to stop in Haines Junction is it is the home of some fellow Hymer owners who we met by chance during our last visit to this area, and who, once again, had warmly invited us back.
With the peaks for Kluane National Park as our backdrop, we feasted on homemade wood-fire pizzas
... with crust expertly rolled out by Doug under the strict supervision of Ron,
... "adorned" with all the fixings by Paulette and me,
... and served up with a delicious salad, lively conversation, and a scenic hike for "dessert".
Sure, the icy allure of Alaska’s Inside Passage towns continue to captivate us ... but it’s the people we meet along the way who make our journey truly unforgettable.
