Picture-Perfect Moments in Canada's Maritime Provinces

I have to admit ... I was feeling a little melancholy when we left Newfoundland a few days earlier than originally planned. We enjoyed our time on ''The Rock'' immensely, and I wasn't ready to let go of the picturesque vistas or the unique experiences that filled our days. Newfoundland's dramatic environment made us feel like we had truly veered off the beaten path and discovered a hidden treasure. But with the possibility of hurricane force winds moving in, we would rather be safe then sorry.

My disappointment was short lived, for when we entered the harbour of North Sydney, the skies cleared ... and the spectacular Nova Scotia coastline came into view.

We had entered a mystical area of ... 

rocky cliffs,

green gables,

and fluctuating tides.

It was time to explore Nova Scotia, New Brunswick, and Prince Edward Island ... Canada's Maritime Provinces. Our mostly ''winging it'' way of traveling would once again bring us to many picture-perfect locations. 

Nova Scotia

The Cabot Trail

Quite a few people had recommended that we drive around the Cabot Trail that hugs the coast of the Cape Breton Island in the northeastern region of Nova Scotia. This 185 mile road weaves through Cape Breton National Park and past many stunning coastline vistas, quaint fishing villages, and scenic hiking trails.

We found one of our favorite spots on the Cabot Trail when we got off the main road and drove up to Meat Cove.

Here we found a boondocking spot on top of a cliff that gave us a perfect spot to see the sunrise without even having to leave the comfort of home.

Hikes to White Point and Meat Cove Overlook rewarded us with spectacular views.

Alexander Graham Bell's Summer Home in Baddeck

After his success with the invention of the telephone, Alexander Graham Bell traveled up to Canada and spent most of his summers in Baddeck, Nova Scotia. There he would spend countless hours in his extensive workshop continuing to improve the world around him with various inventions in the areas of medical research, communication, and aeronautics. We visited the museum, built near his summer home, and marveled at the hundreds of inventions that reflected his curious and creative personality.

Halifax

We spent three days exploring Nova Scotia's provincial capital city of Halifax. A large, quiet public parking lot on the edge of downtown served as our home base. From there we were able to walk along the harbour boardwalk into downtown or catch the ferry that would take us across the harbour to other interesting sights in the city of Dartmouth.

Besides the customary photo in front of the capitol building,

we enjoyed delicious fresh seafood,

and walks past elegant homes, parks, and historical buildings.

Nova Scotia's Picture-Perfect Moments 

Peggy's Cove Lighthouse ... the most photographed lighthouse in Canada.

Lunenburg ... a colorful and charming fishing village.

The quiet community park at the end of the gravel road ... another luxurious (and free) boondocking spot.

Burntcoat Head Park ... this may rival New Brunswick's more famous Bay of Fundy parks ... and it was free!

Prince Edward Island

''Dear old world', she murmured, 'you are very lovely, and I am glad to be alive in you.''

L.M. Montgomery, Anne of Green Gables

Somehow, I got through my school years without having to read Anne of Green Gables by L.M. Montgomery. But when we decided to drive over to Canada's smallest province, Doug and I both downloaded the book. While my speed-reading husband flew through the book in a couple of days, I managed to read just enough to appreciate the charm of this island province.

Lucy Maud Montgomery grew up in Cavendish, PEI and wrote her most famous book, Anne of Green Gables, at her grandparent's home that was located there. When we visited, we were able to walk through the famous green gabled house, hike through the haunted woods, and hold hands down Lover's Lane. This area, like the rest of the island, made us truly think that we had traveled back in time to a magical place where people enjoyed the simple pleasures of life. 

Prince Edward Island's Picture-Perfect Moments

We spent one night in Charlottetown, the provincial capital of Prince Edward Island. Unfortunately, the capitol building was completely covered up as they are working to renovate the stately structure. So I decided that the elegant City Hall, so colorfully lit up, would serve as a nice substitute.

We loved our morning walk past the colorful ''row houses'' that lined many of the streets in downtown Charlottetown,

 

... and a few Tim Horton's ''Timbits'' may have just followed us home.

A benefit of always having our folding bikes ready for action ... we were able to bike a portion of the Confederation Trail that crossed our route on our way up to Prince Edward Island National Park. The Confederation Trail is a ''rails to trails'' path that runs the length of the island and has many side trails, making it possible to hike or bike (or snowmobile in the winter) a total of 449 kilometres. We were quite satisfied with our 20 kilometre total, thank you.  

A stop at Copper Bottom Brewing in Montague gave us a lively sample of Irish jig music that jumped up a notch on the ''fun scale'' when a very enthusiastic teenage clog dancer decided to join in.

Prim Point Lighthouse provided a colorful sunset view ... as well as a quiet night of sleep since the skies were clear and thus, there was no need for the fog horn.

Bib on and ready to practice his lobster cracking skills once again at the New Glasgow Lobster Supper! This restaurant was ''all you can eat'' except for the main entree, so we were thoroughly stuffed after the endless supply of mussels, salads, and desserts that accompanied our lobster and haddock dinners.

The harvest moon that rose over the ocean on our last night on Prince Edward Island was a good reminder of what a gift it is to be able to enjoy the simple blessings of island life.

New Brunswick/Bay of Fundy

Mention New Brunswick, and magic of the Bay of Fundy should quickly come to mind. The Bay of Fundy is known for its extremely high and low tides that allows you to ''walk on the ocean floor'' two times every day. The Bay of Fundy hugs the coast of both Nova Scotia and New Brunswick, so we were able to enjoy the magic of this natural phenomenon a couple different times during our travels around these provinces.

Hopewell Rocks, New Brunswick

This provincial park offered the unique opportunity to kayak above and/or walk on the ocean floor ... it just depends on when you time your visit to the park. 

The same spot ... six hours difference

Burnt Coat Head  (Nova Scotia)

This area of Bay of Fundy can (and does) brag of  the highest tidal range with the record of 53 feet. We stumbled upon this lesser known city park and were thrilled that our visit coincided with low tide. Unlike Hopewell Rocks that charged a $14 entrance fee, this park was free ... and we love free!

But we loved even more the fact that there were fewer people and a greater area to explore. It was fun to watch the active crabs, snails, and other small ocean critters racing around the tide pools.  

The lighthouse that stands on the cliff above had to be rebuilt there when the land on which the original one was built on eroded and became separated over time from the mainland thanks to the force of the twice daily tides.

Tidal Bores

The rising and falling of the tides also has an affect on the rivers that normally flow into the Bay of Fundy. Tidal bores result when the water of the bay rises and reverses the river's flow ... sending tides up the narrow river and creek beds. We boondocked one night along such a river.

It was fun in the morning to see animals taking advantage of the dry river bed to walk across or look for food.

A large wave appeared as the water flow changed directions with the rising of the tide.

It took about 30 minutes for the dry areas to become completely submerged with the brown muddy water. This surge of water upstream can sometimes be so forceful that it is possible to surf the waves in rubber rafts. I'll save that adventure for another time ...

New Brunswick's Picture-Perfect Moments

Flowerpot Rocks that are continually reshaped by the changing tides.

A hike on the Split Rock Trail that brought us high above the cliffs,

... and gave us a view of the lighthouse that was our end goal.

Our last Canadian fried fish feast ... a truly delicious (and slightly coronary-clogging) seafood combo of clams, scallops, shrimp, and cod. Oh, and don't forget the ''chips''! 

Our last boondocking night in Canada was in the parking lot of a Canadian national historic site. I was in ''history-plaque heaven'' as I read about the early explorers, their skirmishes, and the treaties that ultimately drew the borders such that we would sleep in Canada tonight, and cross over a nearby bridge into the United States tomorrow.

We are so grateful for the time that we were able to spend exploring a few more of Canada's picture-perfect provinces.

Whether we are enjoying the coastal sights and seafood in Nova Scotia,

... or walking on the bottom of the ocean in New Brunswick,

... or stealing a kiss in Lover's Lane on Prince Edward Island,

the ever-changing beauty of Canada has captured our hearts.

As we started to notice a few patches of colorful leaves,

I could almost hear Anne of Green Gables say ...

''I'm glad that I live in a world where there are Octobers.''

While the changing of the leaves is beautiful to see, we will take it as a gentle hint that it is time for us to head back to the United States and start making our way south. 

Print this post