Kenai Fjords National Park: Beauty Born From Ice

 

We had heard that the scenery around Seward, Alaska is spectacular. Deep fjords support a coastal area rich in wildlife and beauty. Huge glaciers from the nearby Harding Icefield carve out valleys between the mountains. Lush green forests claim the rocky terrain left by retreating glaciers. Musical waterfalls flow down the mountainsides as the melting snow makes its journey to the Gulf of Alaska.

Kenai Fjords National Park, located near Seward, deserves much of the credit for the area's beauty. Its dynamic ecosystems of ...

coastal rainforests,

rivers of ice,

and glacial fjords

make it a place where

beauty is born from ice.

Kenai Fjords National Park is one of only three of Alaska's eight national parks that it is actually possible to drive to. The other five are in such remote and protected areas that visitors need to arrive by boat or plane. We took advantage of seeing Kenai Fjord's icy beauty by hiking the trails near Exit Glacier and taking a boat cruise out of Seward.

Exit Glacier

Exit Glacier got its name in 1968 when the first mountaineering group to successfully cross the Harding Icefield ''exited'' the ice field from this glacier. It is one of 35 glaciers that flow from this huge ice field and the only one in Kenai Fjords National Park that is accessible by road. From the Visitor's Center, it is an easy one mile hike to some great views of Exit Glacier. It is also possible to walk along the glacier's rocky washout area that is formed as the glacial ice continues to melt and retreat.

For more of a challenge, it's possible to hike up a trail for an up-close view of the Exit Glacier and the Harding Icefield above it. This 8.2 mile (round trip) hike includes a 3800 feet vertical climb and is described as a challenging yet very rewarding experience.

The first day we attempted it, the sun finally came out after a morning of rain, so while the scenery was amazing,

...we ran short on time and were only able to make it half way to the glacier overlook at Marmot Meadows.

2.5 miles and about 2000 feet more

of climbing to reach the top of the icefield!

Yes, this trail is a pretty relentless uphill climb, so we realized that besides needing more time, our next attempt would also have to include more water and snacks.

Partly cloudy skies greeted us on the morning of our second attempt. 

When we reached our previous turn-around spot, we hoped that we would have what it would take to ...

continue the steep accent

across the boulder fields,

and over patches of snow.

Unfortunately, the higher we climbed, the thicker the cloud cover became until the ice field completely disappeared in a monochromatic white fog. But this, too, is the reality of the beauty of Alaska. 

So we smiled as we took our selfie because we knew that when we turned around, we had a nice four mile downhill hike to look forward to! We were also able to enjoy the unique wonders around us ...

like curious marmots,

colorful wildflowers,

and courageous (and slightly crazy) glacial rappellers.

At that point I checked, and I was quite relieved to find out that glacial rappelling is not one of Doug's bucket list items!

Kenai Fjords Boat Tour

Because much of  Kenai Fjords National Park is nestled between mountains and the ocean, one of the best ways to discover the beauty of this seaside paradise is by a boat tour. Several local companies offer wildlife and glacier viewing cruises, and we were grateful to have a mostly sunny day to enjoy the beauty of the area where the mountains, ice, and ocean meet. 

The naturalist on board filled us in on the science and history of this national park's glaciers and inhabitants. Over 190 species of birds can be found on the rocky cliffs of the fjords ...

including one of my favorites, the puffin!

She described the different types of glaciers that can be found in the park and how the ''health'' of these glaciers reflects the ''health'' of our planet.

Bear Glacier is a hanging glacier that is nestled high in the mountains. Despite its high and cold surroundings, its rate of retreat continues to increase each year.

Aialik Glacier is an example of a tidewater glacier in that its terminus flows into the ocean. Its loss of mass is visualized when chunks of ice break off the face of the glacier and float in the water. This process is called calving and while its pretty amazing to be able to get close enough to see the calving of the glacier, it also means that these icy giants are continuing to disappear.

By the time we heard the sound of the crashing ice, bits of the glacier had already fallen into the ocean. See if you can tell what section of the glacier calved in the following short clip.

Our guide also told us about the number of whales who call the waters of Alaska ''home'' for the summer including humpbacks, belugas, and orcas.

We were quite intrigued by how apparently unconcerned these stellar sea lions were with the pod of orcas hunting close to their shoreline hangout.

Never admitting defeat, this orca just gave them a flip of his tail before diving deeper for his seafood dinner.

Kenai Fjords National Park is truly a place where beauty is born from ice.

These rivers of moving ice create the ...

landscapes,

seascapes,

river valleys,

and wet,

frozen playgrounds

for all to enjoy!

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