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Sunday, February 12, 2023

Surrounded by Beauty in Jericó, Colombia


As we climbed higher on the path appropriately named Cerro Las Nubes (Hill to the Clouds), we paused to enjoy views of the beautiful town below us. We were looking down on Jericó, one of Colombia's seventeen designated Pueblos Patrimonios (Heritage Towns). These pueblos showcase Colombia's colorful history and architecture while preserving the natural beauty that surrounds them. Since it's always fun to add a little color to our travels, it seems logical to make these cute pueblos a travel destination.


The department of Antioquia (the equivalent to a ''state'' in the US), is where the city of Medellín is located, and it boasts of three such Pueblos Patrimonios. Last year we visited Jardín and Santa Fe de Antioquia. Time to discover the beauty that surrounds Antioquia's third historical and cultural pueblo, Jericó!

The department of Antioquia with
Medellín, Santa Fe de Antioquia, Jardín, and Jericó circled.

Last week we bought a bus ticket ($15 each round trip) and headed three hours south of Medellín to the hilly coffee country that surrounds Cerro Tusa, the pyramid-shaped mountain that is the famous symbol of the Colombian coffee industry. After riding up some narrow, twisty roads, we ended up in Jericó, elevation 1910 meters or 6266 feet.


Because it is a popular local tourist destination, Jericó has a plentiful supply of relatively inexpensive Airbnb nightly rentals. We decided to take four days to explore the town and found a nice Airbnb apartment two blocks from the main square for $25 a night. When I was communicating with the owner of this apartment, he suggested that we split up our stay and experience the rural beauty of Jericó as well. They had recently converted a small building on their coffee farm, located on the outskirts of town, into a cute and cozy cabin with an amazing view.


This super comfy country retreat with a million dollar view cost even less than the apartment in town ... just $20 a night.


The downside was that it was located 2.5 kilometers (1.5 miles) from the center of the action. But on the positive side, it was cute, comfy, and quiet. We could have taken a taxi or tuk-tuk to get to and from town, but for me, the walk into town was a beautiful part of the adventure. We passed colorful fincas (farms), magestic monasteries, and interesting homes and businesses that lined our path.


For Doug, the daily walk to and from town was all the justification that he needed be able to indulge in a coffee milkshake at Café Don Rafa located near the town square. His review ... Best. Coffee. Milkshake. Ever! The cappuccino was ''muy rico'' also!


Jericó was founded in 1850 when area farmers realized the great agricultural potential of the area. Coffee and banana trees line the hillsides. Cattle happily graze on the lush rolling terrain. 


Because of the agricultural influence, one of Jericó's most famous products, the Carriel bag got its start there.


In the late 19th and early 20th centuries, muleteers crossed the Andes Mountains to sell their goods and bring the mail and other supplies to isolated pueblos like Jericó. It was important for the muleteers to have a strong, weather-proof bag to hold all their precious items in an orderly fashion. That led to the creation of the Carriel ''carry all'' bag. An original ''man purse'', this bag was made of leather and contained twelve pockets including some ''secret'' and ''super-secret'' pockets. The leather held up in the rainy conditions and the pockets kept all their possessions orderly and safe. The Carriel bag continues today to be a symbol of the local culture, and I was happy to see that the craft people have expanded into the women's leather handbag market. 

Perfect for every occasion! 

In addition to the agricultural importance, Jericó is also one of Colombia's most important religious centers. This is due to the influence of St. Laura Montoya Upegui, Colombia's first canonized Catholic saint. She was born in Jericó in 1874 and dedicated her life to preaching the Gospel, teaching, and helping the indigenous people of northern Antioquia. 

''My only desire is to see that
God is known and loved by all.''

In 1914, Santa Laura founded the Congregation of Missionary Sisters of the Immaculate Virgin Mary who now serve people in nineteen countries around the world. When we stopped in to see her place of birth, we got a sweet Spanish lesson from one of her devote followers who talked passionately about her life and contributions to Colombian society.


The religious influence of Santa Laura can be felt throughout the pueblo of Jericó. Despite being a town of only 14,000 people, there are more than fifteen churches, sanctuaries, and chapels as well as a number of monasteries and seminaries.


Catedral Nuestra Señora de las Mercedes holds the most prominente place overlooking the town square and can be easily seen from the surrounding hills.


A few blocks from the cathedral is another massive church with a striking pink exterior known as Santuario de Santa Laura.


The religious ''vibe'' can be seen and felt all around this quaint little town.


From the statues and crosses that randomly appear on the side of the roads,


... to the chapels and museums that display all types of religious art,


... to the Mirador El Salvador who extends His blessing and protection over the pueblo,


... to the stations of the cross that run along a portion of the 650+ stairs (and 1200 feet of elevation gain) on the hike up to Cerro Las Nubes (Hill to the Clouds),


... to the homemade wine ($5.25/bottle) and butter cookies ($1.70/box) made by the Poor Clare Sisters that can be purchased during certain hours of the day at their monastery. I'm not sure about wine in a plastic bottle, but the cookies were so ''heavenly'', that we had to go back to buy a few more boxes!


The sheer beauty in and around the town of Jericó is what left a lasting impression on us and is what continues to draw people here.

Even the horses like to hang out at the
corner bar and listen to the music on a Saturday night!



While the trail up was a bit of a challenge,


... the views from Cerro Los Nubes held us spellbound.


Listen carefully,


... and you may hear the screeches of the monkeys who inhabit these jungle hillsides.


Stroll through the Botanical Garden,


... and be led to more magnificent views overlooking the city.


Hang out at a coffee finca,


... and enjoy the brilliant sunset and the vibrant sounds of songbirds.


Step into one of the many stores that line the town square,


... and be drawn into the story of the Carriel leather bag.


Hungry for lunch??
... enjoy colorful architecture as well as tasty comida típica (typical Colombian food).


Hang out in the shade of the main square for a while,


... and you just may make a new friend.


Listen to some local singers at the Bomarzo Cultural Center,


... and you will definitely meet up with a new friend!


Our ''it's a small world'' story:
Juan Manual is a member of an on-line English-Spanish conversation group that we belong to. He recognized us from our on-line profile pictures and came over to introduce himself.


Jericó is a magical place surrounded by an ageless beauty,


... that we are grateful to be able to enjoy.

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