Guerrero Negro, Baja California Sur: The Gray Whale's Winter Playground

Where Whales Go, The Fun Follows!

The Baja Peninsula in Mexico has a reputation for being a winter "playground" for the many gray-haired humans in search of sunshine and warm beaches.

As it turns out we're not the only ones in search of summer fun in the middle of winter. Thousands of gray whales travel even farther than we do to reach these protected lagoons along Baja’s Pacific Coast ... although their version of winter "vacation" doesn't quite sound as fun as ours.  After a migration distance of over 10,000 miles, these once critically endangered gentle giants arrive to give birth and raise their calves. And much to our wonder and delight, we found that they also love to greet the boatloads of tourists who enthusiastically welcome their arrival.

During our past travels, we have been very fortunate to see whales from a distance while in Alaska and Eastern Canada. 

But the possibility of having an "up close and personal" encounter with these massive creatures promised to be one of nature's most amazing gifts. As we were planning our Baja RVentures, Doug read that the Ojo de Liebre Lagoon, located about 15 miles south of the small town of Guerrero Negro on the northern border of the Mexican state of Baja California Sur, was one of the few places where tourists can experience this magic.

We quickly made a visit to Ojo de Liebre Lagoon ... for the chance to "pet the whales", our main Baja travel goal.

A week after crossing the border we found ourselves in the small pueblo of Guerrero Negro ... a place that quickly won us over not only for its close proximity to the gray whales, but also for its fish and shrimp tacos. A visit to Tacos El Muelle is a must!

The next day we bounced our way down a twelve-mile gravel road through Mexico’s largest salt mine. In an area with an endless supply of seawater and Baja’s generous sunshine, nearly nine million metric tons of salt are harvested here each year through solar evaporation, making it the largest outdoor sea-salt operation in the world.

While Google thinks that the journey should only take 25 minutes, it fails to take into account Baby Beest's ability to handle washboard conditions. Slow and steady maneuvering by my skillful driver brought us to the campground on the shore of Ojo de Liebre Lagoon, and we settled in a site complete with our very own palapa (grass hut).

Unfortunately, we had to "share" our outhouse with a pair of nesting ospreys.

Our excitement grew when we spotted several whale spouts in the not-so-far-off distance. Combined with the encouraging whale counts from the previous days, we felt hopeful for a successful “play date” with our gray whale friends the next morning.

Tickets for whale-watching tours can be purchased online or at the small ticket office by the dock for $65 (USD) each. We opted to buy ours online in order to guarantee a spot on one of the popular morning tours. Morning tours, we were told, are optimal as the seas are typically calmer and the whales are often more playful. The next day, we made our way to the dock, excited to embark on our two-hour whale “meet and greet.”

As we approached deeper waters, several spouts could be seen in the distance. The tour boats never head right towards the whales, but just slow down and gently idle their motor. For some reason, the gentle rumble of the motor piques their curiosity. In just a few minutes, an approaching whale greeted us with a cool spray.

Such excitement when the first of many new friends poked up their heads to catch a glimpse of these strange floating creatures madly taking photos of them!

 It’s often said that no two whale excursions are alike, each one rewarding visitors with a very unique experience. During this trip out, we had many gray whales check us out while keeping a safe distance from the boat. There were plenty of passes under the boat,

flipper greetings,

and our favorite, the impressive "how do you like that tail dive"?

We returned from our "play date" filled with awe at being able to see how the once endangered gray whale population is thriving with the help of humans.

Mama and baby! 

Still enjoying our "whale high", we decided to stay here a few extra days in order to enjoy margaritas and guacamole beachside,

and let Doug have more fun with the gray whales.

As I mentioned earlier, no two whale encounters are ever the same, and Doug's second trip out was on a day when the whales seemed especially curious about their human guests. A couple of them approached the boat and lingered long enough to enjoy many friendly scratches on their heads.

Being just an arm’s length from these friendly giants ... and being able to look at them eye to eye is one of nature's special gifts and is definitely a highlight of our Baja RVentures.

After all ... it's not everyday that one can strike up a friendship with a whale!

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