I've heard it time and again ... take a guided walking tour as soon as you arrive in a new city in order to get a better idea of the history, culture, and sights that await you. I guess we are slow learners, as it took us four weeks to figure out that this is true for Medellin also. Now, admittedly, we have been busy with Spanish lessons and just getting settled into the routine of life in a new country. But we are glad that a visit with our new friends, Margaret and Dan, prompted us to expand our knowledge of Medellin as we took the Real City Walking Tour with them. We gained a new respect for all the struggles the people of Medellin (the Paises) have gone through and admire how they are rebuilding Medellin to be a city of happiness and hope!
Real City Walking Tours is a free tour, however, we needed to register online a day in advance in order to keep the group at a manageable size. We took Medellin's beloved Metro train north during the morning rush hour to the Alpujarra Station where our English speaking guide, Juan met us. With no charge for the tour, Juan's "salary" is dependent on the tips that he receives. These tips were pretty much guaranteed by his enthusiastic personality and stories that engaged us right from the start. Juan is proud of his Paisa heritage and his hometown of Medellin. For the next three and a half hours, he would hold us spell-bound with his stories as he safely guided our group through the crowds of a busy "El Centro" Medellin.
To understand how the city got to where it is today, Juan filled us in on the struggles and conflicts that the people had to face and overcome over the years. Medellin's beginnings are tied closely to the indigenous people who made the Aburra Valley their home for thousands of years. In the early 1600s, the conquistadors arrived looking for gold. Because they did not find any, the Aburra Valley remained a tiny village for 300 years. In the early 1900s, the village started to grow as the railroad made its way into town and began to transport the coffee and other agricultural products that grew abundantly on the hillsides as a result of the nearly perfect climate of Medellin.
Starting in the 1950s and continuing through the 1970s, an increased demand for tobacco, alcohol, and the "white powder" that was also grown in the area brought new problems to Medellin. People around the world have heard of the tragedy of 1983-1993 when the "infamous criminal who shall remain unnamed" held Medellin hostage as he operated one of the largest drug cartels in the world. Anyone in Medellin who is 30 years or older remembers the shootings, kidnappings, and violence that made Medellin the most dangerous city in the world. But as Juan pointed out, and as we have seen during our first month in Medellin ...
Following the death of the "one who shall remain unnamed" in 1993, Medellin slowly but steadily emerged from the conflicts as Paises worked together to transform their city into a safe and successful metropolitan area that now welcomes over six million visitors a year. Some of the images of the transformation that we enjoyed during our tour included:
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| ... peaceful fountains in front of democratic government buildings |
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| ... bustling shopping centers in the midst of beautifully preserved historical buildings |
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| ... Parque de la Luces welcoming visitors to a brighter, cleaner El Centro |
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| ... and the ultimate transformation, Plaza Botero featuring 23 "larger than life" sculptures donated by the beloved Colombian artist, Fernando Botero. |
Medellin's downtown "El Centro" area is bursting with color and activity. I do have to admit that I was a bit nervous to walk among the masses of people, especially when Juan advised us to stay close together and hang on tight to our belongings. Had it been just a few of us, we would have blended right in. But our large group of about 25 "gringo tourists" made us stand out even in this crowd. And as Juan informed us, many of the local people have rarely seen foreigners, so we were a curious sight to see.
As is typical throughout the city, small food stands line the sidewalks offering everything from fruit to empanadas to "authentic" Colombian clothing ... I think Doug needs a sombrero like the one that gentleman is selling! There are also a fair share of people asking for money in return for a piece of candy. It is hard for me to see so many of these beggars. I wish I could give something to each of them, especially to the ones with small children. But today a "Dios te bendiga" (God bless you) greeting was all I could offer them, as I kept my eyes on our group leader.
Our tour ended in Parque San Antonio, a large and fairly empty area that at one time hosted many concerts and gatherings. In one area of this park, there are a few more of Botero's sculptures. As Juan pointed out, a closer look at the sculptures tells the story of Medellin's violent past and its hope for a brighter future.
In 1995, a bomb was placed in this Botero bird sculpture during a crowded concert in the square. The subsequent explosion that killed 23 and wounded hundreds was linked to one of the drug cartels active at the time. When the city tried to remove the damaged sculpture, Fernando Botero himself insisted that it remain as homage to the lives lost and as a reminder of the hard times that Medellin had been through. He created an identical sculpture that sits beside the damaged one as a sign of hope for a brighter future for Medellin and its proud Paisa population.
Proud Paisas are continuing to work to improve their city and their lives. Like this real life "Juan Valdez" who served up a wonderful cup of Colombian coffee along with a smile after our tour, the Paises of Medellin are working to bring happiness and hope back to their city.
Until next time ... walk on the happy side of life ... and enjoy the adventures in your life!
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| We enjoyed a reminder of our beloved (and slightly overweight also) Koko the cat that is displayed in Plaza Botero! |
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