The Endearing Charm of Colombia's Chicamocha Canyon

''A river cuts through the rock not because of its power, but because of its persistence.''

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There weren't too many places to safely pull over on the side of the narrow, twisty mountain road. But Jose Luis, our taxi driver, was determined that we catch the perfect view. And there it was ... one of the most beloved treasures of Colombia, the Chicamocha Canyon.

While the measuring and ranking of canyons is an imprecise science, Colombians hold dear to the belief that the Chicamocha Canyon is the second largest canyon in the world. And who are we to disagree when we saw the canyon that stretched from Bucaramanga, in the Colombian department (state) of Santander, where our plane landed, to Barichara, four hours south, where our week-long adventure would begin.

There are three main ways to travel between the different cities in this region ... by private car, taxi, or bus. We arrived in Bucaramanga in the morning, so our friends had arranged for their ''trusted driver'' Jose Luis to take us to our first destination, Barichara. Along the way, he stopped at many beautiful vistas and points of interest.

Just south of Bucaramanga lies another Pueblo Patrimonio (historical colonial village) of San Juan de Girón. Once again, white and brown stone houses lined the cobblestone streets. Jose Luis insisted that we try the traditional dessert of Girón, the Maracumango. This sundae consisted of two local fruits, maracuya (passion fruit) and mango. Along with some ice cream made from local goat milk, it was very refreshing in the noticeably warmer and more humid weather that is characteristic of this dry tropical forest region. 

The rest of our five hour journey consisted of more panoramic views of the canyon along with some interesting sights along the way. We saw many ''walls of tires'' that were used to prevent erosion of the canyon walls.

As best as I understood Jose Luis' story in Spanish, this airplane ''hotel'' at the side of the road was flown into the canyon and transported to its current resting place many years ago.

After many more interesting sights and stories, we thanked our driver, teacher, tour guide and new friend. It was time to experience one of Colombia's most famous Pueblo Patrimonios,

Barichara, Santander 

We quickly realized why this town has earned the title of ''the most beautiful town in Colombia''. Stone carved architecture give shape to the buildings as well as to the streets and walkways.

Located on a mesa, the hilly landscape provided amazing views of the village and surrounding valleys as we walked along the perimeter of the city

... and hung out on a ledge for a while just admiring the artwork of the persistent river below.

We stayed in an Airbnb apartment for three days, so we were able to experience the beauty and tranquility of Barichara while surrounded by colonial history. 

From the ornate stone carvings in the town cemetery,

... to the flowers and cacti that line the cobblestone roads,

... to the paths that lead

... to amazing views overlooking the village,

... to a ''limonada de coco with a view'' to celebrate the end of the day,

Barichara has our vote!

A walk along the Camino Real to Guane

This 5.5 kilometer stone trail connects Barichara to the even smaller pueblo of Guane and also connects current hikers with Colombia's historic past. In prehistoric times, oceans covered this part of Colombia, and fossils of ancient sea plants and animals can be seen preserved in the stones that line the path.

In more recent history, this serene path was an important part of a system of trails that were used by indigenous people for trade. I suspect this hiker is hoping to trade a few thousand pesos for a cold drink at the end of the trail!

Once in the pueblo of Guane, the cool glass of fruit juice was accompanied by amazing views surrounding the village.

More fossils could be seen decorating the Guane town square and in the town's Paleontological and Archaeological Museum. For 6,000 pesos ($1.25) each, we got a guided tour and a 15 minute Spanish listening lesson. I'm hoping that my Spanish is slowly improving, as I estimated that I understood about 25% of what our museum guide told us. Just seeing some of the huge fossils that were found in the region is truly fascinating in any language!

While Doug stopped in the town's souvenir stores to purchase a fossil of his own, I enjoyed the unique beauty of this tiny pueblo.

From the ornate church that is the center of Colombian life,

... to the fossilized mushroom that reminds us of its ancient past,

... to the friendly fellow who greeted me on the street,

... it is definitely a step back in time to take a stroll down the historic Camino Real.

Next stop ...

San Gil, Santander

It may appear to be a tranquil town square, but San Gil is better known as the epicenter for adventure sports in the Chicamocha Canyon area. It's a 45 minute bus ride ($1.35 per person) from Barichara to the slightly larger town of San Gil. As we walked up the steep incline from the bus station to our ''home'' for the next two days, I was thinking that this town was very appropriately named. San Gil, if spoken in perfect Spanish, sounds like ''San Hill'', and this certainly is the city of hills! I quickly decided that while walking down the hill to the city park was quite pleasant, a taxi ride back up the hill to our Airbnb apartment was well worth the $1.84 fare.

The area around San Gil's main park was alive with activity. Even Homer Simpson would approve of one of the local hangouts!

It was especially fun to watch a community gathering organized by the local police department. 

Art activities, music, and inflatable bounce toys,

... dance and karate performances,

... and demonstrations of skill by the police department's intelligent, agile, and oh-so-cute K9 unit was a fun and positive way to strengthen the relationship between law enforcement and the local community.

Cascadas (Waterfalls) de Juan Curi Ecological Park

Doug had done his research on how to ''actively'' fill our two days in San Gil. First off ... a bus ride to Juan Curi Ecological Park that is thirty minutes south of town. I do appreciate feeling more comfortable navigating the local bus systems with Doug's excellent Spanish skills. A short walk on a lush trail alive with flowers and butterflies led us to the waterfalls.

For the really adventurous, it's possible to follow another trail (accompanied by a guide) to the top of the falls and repel down. Maybe Doug can do this next time if he brings one of his more ''fun'' friends along!

We also enjoyed another opportunity for an impromptu language exchange with Deli and Alejandro who were enjoying the afternoon in the chilly swimming hole under the falls.

Photos like this are some of our most cherished. We appreciate being able to share stories and learn from the enthusiastic young people of Colombia!

Parapente (Paragliding) Over the Chicamocha Canyon

The following day was Doug's opportunity to cross off another activity from his bucket list.  With favorable winds and spectacular scenery, the Chicamocha Canyon is a popular spot for parapente (paragliding). Doug connected with an adventure company that offered tandem flights. For $60 we got transportation to the flight pad an hour north of town, and Doug got a 20 minute flight of a lifetime along with G0Pro photos and videos.

It was his time to soar!

And that he did!

I suspect that the smile is permanently affixed ...

Parque National del Chicamocha 

The following morning we continued our bus journey back in the direction of Bucaramanga. Next stop ... Parque National del Chicamocha which is located in the heart of the canyon. 

Besides the amazing canyon views, the biggest draws to this area are the waterpark and teleférico (cable car) that takes visitors across the canyon to the community on other side, Mesa de Los Santos. While it was plenty hot, we left the waterpark for the younger visitors and just explored the main park area that consisted of

... a magnificent monument to the early settlers of this area and their brave fight for freedom from Spanish rule,

... lunch, a cool drink and even cooler 360 degree views of the canyon,

... and a cable ride to the bottom of the canyon and back up to the other side. There, on the Mesa de Los Santo plateau we found our way to our next unique Airbnb experience.

Mesa de Los Santos

Casa Martinez, our home for the night, is a former family finca (vacation home) that was recently transformed into a tranquil vacation retreat 

... where the inside is as cute as the out,

... and the canyon views have you spell-bound.

During a walk around the property we enjoyed a landscape

... decorated with endless fields of pineapple ripening around us.

The next morning the owners served us a traditional breakfast consisting of arepas, an egg and potato soup, and hot chocolate

... while someone waited patiently for leftovers!

Our task after breakfast was to catch the bus that would take us to Bucaramanga, our final destination on this ''canyon adventure''. The tricky part is that the Mesa de Los Santos side of the canyon is a little more remote, but the gentleman at the teleférico station reassured us that the bus to Bucaramanga ran every two hours on the even hours. So we walked to the bus stop a little before 10 am and waited, and waited, and waited. For an hour we were entertained by multitudes of hardy athletes biking and rollerblading up the steep mountain road. Finally, a bus came by. Even though it wasn't going all the way to our final destination, Doug decided that it was close enough. We could always take a taxi to finish our journey.

I was a bit more skeptical, but as is the norm in Colombian taxis and buses, there were plenty of religious reminders of whom I need to place my trust in ... God and my skillful Spanish-speaking husband!

Bucaramanga, Santander

Doug's plan worked perfectly, and we arrived in Bucaramanga a little after 1 pm. It was easy to see why this city is proudly nicknamed ''the city of parks''. According to a city placard, there are more than 140 parks in Bucaramanga. I liked how our hotel brought the ''park'' feeling into the interior space.

That afternoon we walked around Parque de Las Flores, one of the larger parks in town. It was full of people out enjoying another warm yet beautiful day in Colombia.

For our main meal, we were happy to have followed the recommendation of our hotel host, Carlos. We have come to realize that the Colombian people absolutely love their meat and cheese, but this local restaurant took this love to a whole 'nother level.

Now that's a ''smothered chicken''!

Makes my cholesterol level rise just looking at it ...

One other ''interesting'' claim to Bucaramanga's culinary fame are hormigas (ants) ... yes ANTS. According to our host, hormigas culonas (big-bottomed ants) emerge from their earthen homes each year during Holy Week. These huge ants are either roasted or fried in salt. High in protein and low in fat, these creatures are considered a ''healthy'' delicacy. Doug picked up a few small containers for some Medellín friends who really like them.

 Anyone else want to try?

Our trip to the Chicamocha Canyon area was quickly coming to an end. We didn't spend nearly enough time in Bucaramanga, but I suspect that we'll be back to explore more of the incredible beauty of both the pueblos and the natural areas. But what will really draw us back is the memory of the genuine kindness of the people we met. From our taxi driver, to the young people on the hiking trails, to the skillful parapente team, to the owners of the various Airbnbs ... everyone is just so nice!

We'll definitely remember the delicious Santanderian breakfast that Carlos made for us on our last morning in Bucaramanga,

... but it's the conversations and smiles shared that give endearing charm to Colombia's Chicamocha Canyon region.

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