Doug has been talking about it for a few years ... and I’ve been quietly dodging the subject. But somehow, this winter, the idea started to sound almost reasonable ...
and just like that, we find ourselves taking a road-trip down Mexico's Baja Peninsula.
Our short trip to Puerto Peñasco last November gave us a small taste of van life in Mexico. But I'll be honest, the thought of spending a couple of months south of the border made me just a tad bit nervous. Thankfully, Doug went into full scout mode ... mapping out all the cool spots, lining up the extra van insurance, and getting Baby Beest road-ready … because judging by some of these crater-sized potholes, her new rear shocks (and Doug’s dodge-and-weave skills) are definitely about to be tested.
Tecate, Baja California
Just like to US, Mexico is divided into "states". The Baja Peninsula consists of two of these states, Baja California to the north and Baja California Sur to the south. The peninsula is surrounded by coastal waters with the Gulf of California (Sea of Cortez) on the eastern border and the Pacific Ocean on the west. Its varied landscape consists of deserts, mountains, beaches, and of course, gorgeous sunrises or sunsets depending on which side of the peninsula you happen to be on.
To begin our Baja RVenture, we drove west from Phoenix into southern California. Believing that the weather is always nice in this part of the country, we didn't bother to check the forecast beforehand. Three days of much needed rain and cold greeted us, so we hung out for a few extra days at a county park campground north of Tecate, the border town where we would cross over into Mexico.
Tecate is one of the 177 Pueblos Magicos in Mexico. These towns showcase the unique cultural, historical, and natural significance that can be found in all 31 Mexican states. The day before we crossed the border, we decided to park our van on the U.S. side and walk over to check out what makes Tecate unique.
Here we found a vibrant town square that was surrounded by historic architecture,
... a number of delicious bakeries which helped us understand why Tecate is sometimes referred to as "the bread village",
... and the brewery where Tecate Beer is produced. While it may not have the star-power of its cousin, Corona, it is steadily growing in popularity. Since they hand out a free beer just for walking through the door ... consider Doug a new fan.
We found Tecate to be a fairly quiet village without a lot of the typical "tourist bait" that can be found in some of the larger border towns. While we were there, we were able to get our FMM (immigration) visa and withdraw some pesos from a local ATM, so that we would be all set to cross the border the next morning and continue on our way down to ...
Ville de Guadalupe's Ruta de Vino (Route of the Wine)
Surprisingly, this northwestern section of Baja California is Mexico's premier wine region and produces between 70 and 80% of Mexico's wine. Doug scoped out a vineyard that was partnered with a cerveceria, (a win-win for us), as our first stop, but the recent rains had made the road leading up to it a bit questionable for the Baby Beast. But fear not, stop #2 treated us to a craft beer, a refreshing sangria, and beautiful views overlooking the valley.
After that we found a small family-run cerveceria that allowed us to park there overnight. It was nice to talk with the owners and some locals who helped us add more "must see" locations to our Baja California travel map.
Ensenada, Baja California
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About 30 miles from Mexico's wine country lies the port town of Ensenada. While we had marked it as a spot because of our previous host's craft brewery recommendations, we also found a town that treated its visitors to a colorful "Bienvenida" as it is a popular stop for cruise ships. Many shops and restaurants lined the town's oceanfront boardwalk.
During our travels in Mexico, we are relying on the iOverlander app to help us find our campgrounds or boondocking spots for the night.
There were many positive reviews for a street parking area just across from the cruise ship dock and an easy walk to the town's malecon, the seaside boardwalk that is usually lined with interesting restaurants and shops. It seemed like it would be quiet after the ships left and the shops closed up, but much to our surprise and delight ...
we were treated with a Mexican band practice/concert just up the street. Those are some dedicated high school musicians if they would give up their Friday evening fun in order to practice from 8 to 10 pm.
San Felipe, Baja California
Time to cross over the central mountain spine that separates the western part of Baja California from the east as we made our way to San Felipe on the Gulf of California. This town is a popular "first stop" for visitors to the Baja, known for its beaches and off-road desert racing.
Important things first ... check off another Mexican craft brewery. With a long list of IPAs to sample, it was good that San Felipe Brewery allowed us to park there overnight.
The next morning we checked out their Malecon, where a weekend festival and parade were taking place. It was quite nice to enjoy our first of many fish tacos as we sat on the upper level of a restaurant overlooking the parade route.
That evening as we were checking into a campground near the city center, we heard the news about the political unrest following the killing of a major Mexican drug lord. Because of the demonstrations and roadblocks near the border towns three hours from us, we followed the shelter in place recommendations and hung out at this tranquil beachside town for a few more days.
Not a shabby spot to hang out!
Puertecitos, Baja California
We monitored the news reports concerning the areas of unrest in Mexico over the next few days. The information that we received from various new sources and people that we trusted made us feel confident that we could safely continue our Baja journey south.
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Always in search of unique natural treasures, we read about some seaside hot springs an hour south of San Felipe. Located in the tiny pueblo of Puertecitos, we quickly decided that these hot springs were nature's way of telling us that everything is going to be just fine.
We stayed at the no-frills camping spot overlooking a quiet bay and walked about a half mile walk to the springs.
There is a debate among visitors to the hot springs as to whether it is best to experience the hot springs at low or high tide. When we first arrived in the early afternoon, it was low tide and the rock walls that separate the various pools was very evident.
All of the water levels in the pool areas were low, with temperatures ranging from "oh, that's a bit chilly" to "wow, that'll give you an unpleasant third-degree burn". Fortunately, we managed to find the "Goldilocks pool" that was "just right"!
We returned a few hours later as the tide was coming in and could already see a difference as rising sea water mixed with the previous super-hot spring areas to create deeper pools of more temperate water.
There is something magical about discovering and enjoying the natural and ever-changing playgrounds in our world!
Ville de Los Cirios
As we make our way south, the magic of Baja shows up in its ever-changing landscapes. The coastline gives way to the mountains, and the mountains give way to the desert. It’s like Baja refuses to stick to just one personality, and honestly, we’re ok with that!
The Ville de Los Cirios is a large desert region where the Cirios or Boojum tree grow. This strange looking tree, known for its tall, tapered, spiny trunk, looks like it came directly out of one of Dr Suess' classic children's books.
Mexico's Baja Peninsula:
Our First Impressions
Driving in Baja California
I have to admit it ... I was quite nervous about driving down the Baja Peninsula into Mexico. The roads are narrow, and potholes can pop up at any minute.
But my skillful driver is taking it slow, and so far, the traffic has been light and the scenery has been beautiful as thousands of ocotillo cacti show off their orange blossoms in front of the magnificent mountain backdrop.
RVing in Baja California is Not Necessarily Inexpensive
After dishing out a chunk of change for extra Mexican car insurance ($700+ for three months), obtaining a Mexican Visa ($54 each), and paying higher gas prices at the pump ($5.30/gallon), an RV trip into Mexico is not necessarily less expensive than just hanging out in the southwestern US. Campground costs are a bit less, but they come with far fewer amenities than we're used to back home. And that free potable water that we take for granted?? It's a luxury that you search out and pay for in Mexico. While the jury is still out in regards to the "affordability" of eating out, those fresh fish tacos are worth every peso!
Being able to Speak a Little Spanish is Definitely a Plus!
From being able to understand road signs, read menus, and follow simple instructions, our ability to understand and speak some Spanish is definitely making this journey a bit easier and a lot more fun ... especially when we can carry on a delightful conversation with a local family camping near us and enjoy the amazing guitar skills of their 15 year old son. We are so grateful for the universal language of music and laughter!
There is No Such Thing as "Mild" Salsa in Mexico
Proceed with caution! A small drop of salsa on your chips or tacos is more than adequate ... and they offer other options if you want even more spice in your life!
Our first week in Baja California has come with a little uncertainty and a lot of beautiful discoveries. It has definitely kept us on our toes as we learn to embrace new "learning opportunities". Yet as we experience the unique natural scenery, gorgeous campsites, and colorful sunset beach walks, we are reminded why we are here. It’s hard not to fall for Baja’s laid-back charm.
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